Sadelle’s

There is no pastrami on the menu at this Major Food Group homage to the glories of classic old-world New York–style cuisine, nor any platters of stuffed cabbage poured with viscous red sauce like in the old country (although for a time, the kitchen produced a nice bowl of kasha varnishkes mingled, in a jaunty, postmillennial way, with quinoa). There is no deli counter, either, although the daytime selections of egg dishes, smoked fish, and triple-decker sandwiches is impressive, and at dinnertime the menu fills up with exotic blini, caviar, and vodka options, and the brick walls glimmer, like in some antic Moscow pop-up, with light from a hundred candelabra. It’s a bit of a random conceptual grab bag, in other words, and although the talented Melissa Weller, who used to run the much-praised bakery operation, departed the premises long ago, we’re happy to report that the bagels (and sticky buns) are still the best in all of Soho.