My bestie Erin and I got a few amused stares as we zipped across Geneva’s Mont Blanc Bridge in an electric tuk-tuk, our hair flying behind us in a devil-may-care wake of joy as we sang along to Prince’s “Let’s Go Crazy.” I simply lifted my glass of Chasselas, a popular white wine in this region of Switzerland, and shouted, “Santé!” — an appropriate toast in a city where French is widely spoken.
The Mont Blanc Bridge, named after the highest mountain peak in the Alps, spans Lac Léman, also known as Lake Geneva, and offers a spectacular view of the city. There was so much to see it was hard to decide where to look first.
Jet d’eau, a fountain on the lake that shoots 453 feet into the air, is the most famous landmark. A Ferris wheel spun against the backdrop of the fog-covered Alps. Colorful flags representing some of the ubiquitous international organizations headquartered in Geneva fluttered from the bridge as graceful swans glided below on the water’s calm surface. Somehow, the birds never had a close call with the numerous water taxis and pleasure boats that share the lake with them.
After taking in the awe-inspiring scenery, Erin and I turned our attention to the bubbling fondue pot safely secured in a hole in the table between us. We hungrily speared pieces of bread with our long fondue forks and dipped into the ambrosia of Gruyère and Vacherin cheeses.
While we savored our dinner, the driver pointed out many key attractions, such as the flower clock that blooms on a hillside in Jardin Anglais and the Reformation Wall in Parc des Bastions that depicts some of the Reformation’s most influential theologians.
It occurred to me that the last time I enjoyed wine and cheese to ’80s tunes, I was in the Geneva of the Midwest — Lake Geneva, Wisconsin — taking a cooking class from a pop-music-loving chef.
Both Genevas have their charms, offering pleasant summer temps, boating on a beautiful lake, and, of course, an abundance of world-class cheese, but that’s where the similarities end.
Geneva, the second-largest city in Switzerland, is a multicultural global hub with a polyglot population. It’s the supermodel of cities — sophisticated with a carefully curated beauty, but slightly aloof until you get to know it. Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, population 8,500, is the girl next door — reliable, down-to-earth and blessed with a natural beauty that changes little over time.
The tuk-tuk ride was the perfect introduction to the “City of Peace,” a well-deserved moniker since it has long been a space for diplomacy. We made mental notes of interesting places we would return to for a closer look.
First on the list was St. Pierre Cathedral in cobblestoned Old Town. It’s noteworthy not only because of the majestic architecture, a blend of Gothic, neoclassical and Romanesque styles, but because it was the adopted church of Protestant Reformation leader John Calvin. He preached there in the mid-16th century, and visitors can still see his high-back wooden chair.
Before the Reformation, the church was a Roman Catholic cathedral; but in 1535, Geneva voted to make it Protestant. In keeping with Protestant beliefs that reject excessive adornment, the church was stripped of many of its statues and other decorative elements, but the stained glass windows remain.
The sonorous notes of a modern pipe organ were the soundtrack to my tour, enhancing the sense of reverence the cathedral inspires. Those willing to climb 157 stairs to the top of the north tower are rewarded with a panoramic view of the city and the Alps, but I was more interested in what lay beneath the church.
The entrance to St. Pierre’s archaeological site can be easily overlooked because it’s tucked away to the right of the imposing cathedral steps. Equipped with an audio guide, I embarked on a sacred subterranean journey through this vast labyrinth that spans the late antiquity period to the Middle Ages.
Excavations reveal that many churches stood on or near the site of the current cathedral long before its construction began in the 12th century. Structures and artifacts from various time periods intersect and overlap in a somewhat confusing fashion, but a color-coding system helps visitors place them in the correct era.
Vestiges of the first Christian complex, circa 400 A.D., include a church that was likely dedicated to the veneration of relics. The mosaic floors in the Bishop’s Hall are remarkably well preserved. Other highlights include the tomb of an ancient Allobrogian chieftain, medieval monks’ cells, baptisteries and pottery remnants from various periods.
I definitely got my steps in sightseeing around this walkable city. (The tuk-tuk ride lasted only as long as the fondue.) After a particularly long day of hoofing it, I took my aching feet to Bain-Bleu Hammam & Spa, a Turkish-style bathhouse along the lake shore.
I felt a sense of calm the moment I waded into this aquatic oasis. The main bath had a rain shower that pummeled my shoulders, which were sore from lugging around an overpacked suitcase. Later, I headed up to the sunny rooftop pool overlooking Lake Geneva. Oh, I had found my happy place.
The spa menu features an impressive list of services. Get the royal treatment with the Cleopatra head and neck massage that includes a revitalizing argan butter face mask or indulge in a bubble massage with foam from organic soap.
Erin and I ended our time in Geneva on a sweet note. Switzerland is world famous for quality chocolate, so we set off with our Choco Passes that entitled us to tastings at eight of the city’s top chocolate shops. We didn’t make it to all of them, but the ones we hit would give Willy Wonka a run for his money.
We happily nibbled each shop’s bestselling chocolates and were even given goodie bags for later. It’s like trick-or-treating for grown-ups, only this chocolate is far superior to anything that might land in a plastic jack-o’-lantern.
When we arrived at Canonica Chocolaterie, a bevy of teenage girls armed with their Choco Passes were posing with jewel-toned bonbons for quirky TikTok pictures. They even talked the shopkeeper into joining the fun. Erin and I sampled the ones they raved about, like the granny apple.
Sweetzerland Chocolatier specializes in organic, sustainably sourced chocolate that is free of palm oil. I bit into a milk chocolate truffle with a tart passionfruit center. It was a tasty novelty, but I prefer my chocolate with nuts instead of fruit, so the hazelnut dark chocolate was my palate pleaser.
Our last stop was Du Rhône Chocolatier, an award-winning shop that is among the oldest in Geneva. It’s home to the Noble du Rhone candy bar, a concoction of melt-in-your-mouth dark chocolate with a feuillantine filling of toasted crepe crumbs that’s whimsically shaped like mountain peaks. Now, I’m too spoiled to go back to those impulse buys at the grocery store checkout line.
This supermodel of cities possessed an irresistible blend of beauty, light-hearted fun and real substance. As much as I love the Geneva in the Midwest, I’m glad I got acquainted with the one across the pond.
Tracey Teo is a freelancer.
