‘Not So Pretty’ Is Changing the Investigative Documentary Game

It’s always an odd moment whenever you finish a documentary that opens your eyes to new evils in our world. Blackfish, The Central Park Five, 13th, Food, Inc. — they all inspire anger, pent up outrage that has nowhere to go once the credits roll. That’s not the case with Not So Pretty, HBO Max’s deep dive into the beauty industry narrated by Keke Palmer. At the end of each horrifying episode, Not So Pretty offers solutions instead of grief in the form of actions viewers can take to both protect themselves and make this industry safer. It’s a smart move that should be copied.

Those solutions aren’t the only revolutionary detail about Not So Pretty. From Kirby Dick and Amy Ziering (Allen v. Farrow, On The Record) comes possibly the first large-scale investigative docuseries about this trillion dollar industry. It’s also an investigation that’s somehow even more gut-wrenching than you would expect. No matter how little faith you have in the beauty industry, Not So Pretty is there to remind you to expect less. After all, this is a largely unregulated field backed by minimal scientific research. If you start the series feeling ambivalent about your shampoo, you’ll end it with hard opinions about chemicals, a skeptical eye, and possibly a new app. And if you start this series low-key hating the corruption of this industry, God help you.

If these reactions sound intense, know that they don’t capture the full scope of greed and carelessness that appears on screen. Episode 1, “Makeup”, starts — yes, STARTS — with the accusation that asbestos was found in Claire’s makeup line for children. That accusation is tied to the story of Corrin Ortillo, a woman who grew up loving makeup but was diagnosed with mesothelioma, a tumor caused by inhaled asbestos fibers. As Ortillo and her mother tearfully recount the medical nightmare that has become their lives, the episode explains how this company was able to claim there wasn’t asbestos in its talcum powder even though lab work proves otherwise. That’s when Not So Pretty takes a step back.

Claire’s isn’t the only company that’s been accused of lying about its asbestos; so has the decades-long leader in baby powder, Johnson & Johnson. Then there are the experiments. In 1971, Johnson & Johnson injected asbestos into the lower backs of inmates in Pennsylvania to test how the human body reacts to the chemical. By the time the episode touches on how its marketing specifically targeted Black communities — a demographic that historically has less access to decent doctors — you’ll want to run to the grocery store and trash these products yourself.

It should be noted that both Claire’s and Johnson & Johnson have denied these claims, and, as of 2020, Johnson & Johnson baby powder is no longer sold in the United States. Both companies provided statements to Not So Pretty, assuring consumers that their products are safe to use and do not contain asbestos. But after learning about the hundreds of little procedures beauty companies have implemented to make their product look as safe as possible, it’s hard to not be skeptical.

Every episode continues on in this manner, introducing a new terror for you to obsess about. Your nails, skin, makeup, and hair — for all of them Palmer is there, breaking down complicated industry practices with the gusto of a friend dishing on a mutual enemy. Even though every episode is roughly half an hour, it’s a docuseries that can feel overwhelmingly bleak. That’s why the final few moments of every episode matter so much.

Every installment of Not So Pretty concludes with a Do’s and Don’ts section. Some of the actions suggested are clearly for consumers’ own protection. Most episodes ask that viewers download Skin Deep, Detox Me, or Clearya, apps that allow people to check the safety and chemical composition of the products they use on a daily basis. Other suggestions are on a larger scale. For example, “Nails” recommends telling salons that you’re willing to pay more for less toxic products and asking your congressperson to support the Safer Beauty Bill Package. It’s a list that only lasts a minute or two at most. But it’s also an inclusion that understands media today is an interactive experience. If you can use that relationship for good, why wouldn’t you?

By including these resources, Not So Pretty puts its money where its mouth is. Yes, this stuff is despicable, but we also have the power to change it. It’s a docuseries that doesn’t seem content with just roping in viewers by being appalled at the state of the beauty industry. Instead, it’s the rare series that feels like it would love nothing more than to never have to make a Season 2.

Watch Not So Pretty on HBO Max